Surrealism in fashion

August 30, 2016
Dream-like fashion shoots
Celine style show in ParisCéline took an urgent action towards surrealism at Paris style week, replacing sharp tailoring with an increase of difficult forms. Photograph: Gonzalo Fuentes/Reuters

The head-to-head debuts of minimalist designers Raf Simons at Christian Dior and Hedi Slimane at YSL might be monopolising the airwaves, but there is a 3rd major player in this game: Phoebe Philo, the British designer of the house of Céline.

Probably neither Simons nor Slimane is staging catwalk shows in Paris this weekend if it had not been for Philo.

Philo, 39, may be the woman which put minimalism in the popular. In four many years she's taken Céline from a posture of irrelevance to a name held in very nearly reverential awe on the market.

The woman understated yet arrestingly various aesthetic – clean lines and a restrained classy, where opulence and design had ruled – has directed the eye of a generation of females in a fresh way. It really is into the slipstream of her success that Simons and Slimane had been appointed by deluxe labels recently changed into the selling power of minimalism.

But two days after Raf Simons declared he was taking sexy back into minimalism, Céline took an urgent change, out of the conventional chic she's shaped and towards surrealism. Flat sandals and judge footwear had been lined inside and outside with shaggy fur in brilliant major colours with an unsettling impact, as you observer pointed out on Twitter, similar to Meret Oppenheim's fur teacup and saucer.

The sleek polo throat sweaters and razor-sharp tailoring of current months were replaced by more challenging shapes: coats flared from an exaggerated high waist, while trousers had been flared and cropped over the ankle, or pooled to the floor.

The elegant trouser is a touchstone at Céline, as a shopfloor basic and as a statement about the modern, dynamic girl whom identifies with the label. Inside collection for Spring 2013 the pants were as unimpeachably elegant as ever before, but neither the cropped judo-style nor the additional standard of slouch inside loose pyjama styling had rather the bite of the sporty racing-stripe versions of past periods.

The handbag – golden goose of every contemporary luxury home – had been held well-protected from any perception of "un-mainstreaming". Simple pouches with folded tops are a brilliantly easy Céline statement: the true luxury of a clutch case fulfills the practicality of a document folder. These were much in proof on the catwalk, in pretty tones of butterscotch and duck-egg blue along with the neutrals which dominated the garments.

The program had been the very first full-scale Céline catwalk production in a year. The very last Paris fashion week fell whenever Philo had been heavily expecting along with her third child, hence show was scaled to a much smaller presentation.

Backstage after this tv show, Philo defined the collection to be about "beauty and friendship". Owing to the arrival of her baby, this collection was in fact very much a joint work together with her team, she said. "It believed like a journey. It is often about promoting one another being type together." Just how precisely this related to raw-edged silks and primary-hued furs, she declined to state.

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